6 Best Brick Spacers For Consistent Grout Lines

Achieving perfectly uniform grout lines is the difference between a amateur-looking finish and a professional-grade installation that holds up under pressure. When working with brick, stone, or large-format tile, inconsistent spacing creates stress points that can lead to cracking when the substrate shifts or settles. Proper spacers are not just about aesthetics; they are essential structural tools that ensure load distribution across the surface. Choosing the right tool for the job saves hours of corrective work and prevents the frustration of “creeping” lines.

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Tavy Tile Spacers: The Pro’s Go-To Choice

Tavy spacers are unique because they act as both a spacer and a leveler, offering a flexible design that fits into tight corners and wide gaps alike. Their “two-in-one” function allows for precise adjustments that traditional rigid plastic spacers simply cannot match.

For contractors working on high-end residential projects where precision is non-negotiable, these are the standard. They hold their position firmly, preventing the shifting that often happens when laying heavy brick veneers on vertical surfaces.

The bottom line is that Tavy spacers offer the best balance of versatility and grip. They are a must-have for jobs where speed and accuracy must coexist without compromise.

Marshalltown Spacers: Best Bulk Value Option

Marshalltown is a legacy name in the trade for a reason: they produce straightforward, reliable tools that survive the rigors of a busy job site. These standard plastic spacers are the workhorses of the masonry industry, coming in various thicknesses to accommodate everything from tight-jointed brickwork to larger stone pavers.

When tackling large-scale exterior cladding or extensive patio projects, buying in bulk is the only way to maintain a steady workflow. Marshalltown spacers are consistent, meaning the 3/8-inch spacer today will be exactly the same as the one pulled from the bag next week.

While they lack the leveling bells and whistles of high-end kits, they remain the most cost-effective solution for straightforward installations. Stick with these when the primary goal is maintaining consistent width across long, uninterrupted runs.

QEP LASH Leveling Clips: For Perfect Alignment

QEP LASH clips are specifically designed to address the “lippage” problem, where one brick or tile sits slightly higher than the neighbor. This system pulls the materials into a flush plane using a wedge and clip mechanism, ensuring a perfectly smooth transition across the surface.

This is critical when working with materials that have slight warping or irregular thickness. If an installation involves large-format stone on a facade, these clips are essential to prevent the “shadow lines” that occur when pieces are not perfectly flush.

Always remember that these systems require a specific installation sequence, adding a step to the process. Use these when the finish quality is the top priority and the budget allows for the extra time and material cost.

Raimondi RLS: Premium Leveling & Spacing Kit

The Raimondi Leveling System (RLS) is the gold standard for professionals who demand zero margin for error. This system uses a unique tensioning mechanism that exerts constant pressure on the materials until the mortar or adhesive reaches full set.

This system is particularly effective for heavy materials where gravity tends to pull tiles or brick out of alignment during the curing process. Its ability to lock the spacing and level simultaneously makes it a high-performance choice for complex, high-traffic, or high-visibility projects.

Investing in a Raimondi kit is an investment in reducing call-backs. If the project requires flawless results on vertical surfaces or large-format stone, do not cut corners—use a proven, tension-based system.

Bon Tool Line Blocks: For Straight Bed Joints

Bon Tool line blocks are a classic masonry tool used to hold a mason’s line perfectly taut across a long wall. Unlike small plastic spacers that sit between bricks, these blocks guide the placement of the entire course to ensure the wall remains plumb and level from end to end.

In any scenario involving long runs of brickwork, relying solely on individual spacers can lead to “bowing” over a ten-foot span. Line blocks ensure that every brick follows the same perfectly straight reference line, which is essential for structural integrity.

They are the most practical choice for traditional bricklaying where bed joint consistency is paramount. For long-term structural alignment, keep a pair of these in the tool bag at all times.

Plywood Strips: The Classic DIY Spacer Trick

When professional-grade spacers aren’t on hand, simple plywood strips of a specific thickness can serve as an effective makeshift solution. They are particularly useful for maintaining consistent spacing in rough masonry or oversized stone projects where standard plastic spacers would be too small.

The key to success here is ensuring the wood is sealed or dry to prevent moisture absorption, which could cause the spacer to swell and ruin the grout line. This is a “field-expedient” method that works well for small repairs or non-critical cosmetic projects.

However, avoid using this for precision jobs or high-moisture exterior installations where dimensional stability is required. Keep this trick in the back pocket for emergencies, but don’t rely on it as a primary system for professional work.

How to Pick the Right Spacer Size for Your Job

Selecting the correct spacer size depends entirely on the material type and the visual goal of the project. A wider grout joint, such as 1/2-inch, is often preferred for rustic brick to allow for movement and thermal expansion in exterior environments.

For refined, interior work or rectified tile, 1/16-inch or 1/8-inch joints provide a modern, seamless look. Always check the manufacturer’s recommendations for the material, as some stone or brick products require a minimum joint width to handle the material’s specific rate of thermal expansion.

When in doubt, err on the side of a wider joint for exterior work to accommodate seasonal movement. Using a joint that is too tight can cause cracking when the structure inevitably expands and contracts throughout the year.

Spacers vs. Leveling Systems: Which Do You Need?

Spacers are simple tools designed to maintain width between units, while leveling systems are sophisticated mechanical fasteners designed to manage the height (plane) of the units. If the material is perfectly flat and the substrate is level, standard spacers are usually sufficient.

If working with heavy materials, large formats, or uneven substrates, a leveling system is a necessary insurance policy against lippage. Many contractors choose to use spacers for the base and a leveling system for the finish, combining the best of both worlds.

Do not assume that all projects require expensive leveling clips. Assess the surface preparation and the quality of the brick or tile first; if the foundation is sound and the material is uniform, standard spacers will get the job done.

Mastering Both Vertical and Horizontal Grout Lines

Maintaining consistency in both directions requires a systematic approach to starting each course. Use a laser level to establish a primary horizontal reference point and use spacers to bridge the vertical gap as the work progresses.

Vertical lines, or “head joints,” are the most common place where errors accumulate, turning a straight line into a wandering path. Keep a level or plumb line handy to verify the vertical alignment every three to four courses to ensure the geometry holds.

Consistency is a cumulative discipline. By verifying the horizontal and vertical alignment early and often, the final outcome will look deliberate rather than accidental.

Removing Spacers: Timing and Technique Are Key

Removing spacers too early can cause the bricks or tiles to shift while the mortar is still green and pliable. Wait until the mortar has reached its initial set—usually after several hours—before attempting removal.

If the spacers are deep in the joint, use a pair of needle-nose pliers or a dedicated removal tool to pull them out cleanly without damaging the edges of the material. Never force a spacer out; if it is stuck, it is better to leave it buried and grout over it than to chip the face of the brick.

The bottom line is patience. Rushing the removal process is a common way to ruin an otherwise perfect job, so wait for that initial set to ensure the structure is locked in place.

Whether the job calls for simple bulk spacers or a high-end leveling kit, the choice should be driven by the material, the environment, and the desired finish. Professionalism is defined by the tools chosen to overcome the specific challenges of each site. With the right system in place, consistency becomes the default, not an ongoing battle.