6 Best Mortar Rakes For Removing Old Joints Pros Use

Removing old mortar from joints is the most critical step in masonry restoration, yet it is often the most overlooked phase of the project. Using the wrong tool can lead to damaged brick edges, inconsistent depths, or hours of unnecessary manual labor. Selecting the right mortar rake transforms this tedious chore into a controlled, professional-grade operation. This guide evaluates the top tools in the trade to help match the equipment to the specific demands of the masonry job.

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Arbortech AS175: The Ultimate Power Mortar Saw

The Arbortech AS175 is not a traditional grinder; it functions as a specialized oscillating saw designed specifically for masonry. Its patented cutting technology allows for a clean, plunge-cut finish that standard circular blades simply cannot replicate.

This tool is the gold standard when corner work is required or when deep, clean cuts into hard mortar are necessary. Because it does not rely on spinning discs, the risk of “overcutting”—where the blade slips and damages the adjacent brick—is virtually eliminated.

The primary trade-off is the cost of the replacement blades, which are proprietary and wear out based on the hardness of the mortar. For high-end historical restoration where brick integrity is non-negotiable, the AS175 pays for itself by preventing expensive damage.

C-Tec TCT Mortar Rake: Best for Precision Work

The C-Tec Tungsten Carbide Tipped (TCT) mortar rake is designed to be fitted to a standard angle grinder, offering a bridge between raw power and fine control. It excels in tight, vertical joints where standard diamond blades might be too bulky to maneuver.

The TCT teeth are aggressive and bite into mortar with surprising efficiency, making it ideal for clearing out old lime-based or soft sand-cement mortars. It provides excellent visibility of the joint, ensuring the user stays centered and does not drift into the surrounding masonry units.

Keep in mind that these bits require a steady hand; if the grinder tilts, the edge of the brick is prone to chipping. Use this tool when project aesthetics rely on thin, crisp joint lines that require delicate handling.

DeWalt DWE46228N: Top Dedicated Tuckpointer

When the task involves entire walls of repointing, a dedicated tuckpointer like the DeWalt DWE46228N is superior to a standard angle grinder. This tool is purpose-built with a specialized shroud and internal gearing designed to handle the high-torque, low-speed demands of mortar removal.

The integrated dust collection shroud is far more effective than universal aftermarket attachments. It creates a closed system that captures almost all fine particulate matter, which is essential when working in occupied buildings or high-traffic areas.

While the weight is higher than a standard grinder, the ergonomic balance reduces fatigue during long shifts on the scaffold. Invest in this tool if the scope of work involves recurring masonry maintenance.

Bosch GDE Guard & Blade: Best for Dust Control

Silica dust is the primary enemy on any masonry job, and the Bosch GDE system is the industry leader for containment. This isn’t just a blade; it is a comprehensive guard system that effectively seals the work area while allowing for depth adjustment.

The depth-stop mechanism is the standout feature, ensuring every joint is raked to the exact same depth across the entire wall. Consistency is the hallmark of a professional finish, and this system removes the guesswork for the operator.

The setup is bulky and adds width to the tool, which can make it challenging to use in corners or tight spots. Prioritize this system when working in environments where dust mitigation is mandated by site safety regulations.

Makita 9565PCV Kit: The Most Versatile Grinder

The Makita 9565PCV is the workhorse of the construction industry, known for its Super Joint System (SJS) which protects the gears from the high-load shocks of masonry work. It is the go-to choice for contractors who need a tool that can switch from mortar raking to steel cutting in minutes.

The electronic speed control is the critical feature here; mortar raking requires lower RPMs than metal grinding to prevent the blade from burning out prematurely. Running a blade too fast in mortar generates excessive heat, which ruins the diamond bond and significantly shortens the tool’s lifespan.

This grinder is a versatile investment for those who don’t want to dedicate a tool exclusively to masonry. It serves as a reliable power base, but ensure it is paired with a quality dust shroud for masonry applications.

Silverline Raking Kit: Best Value for Small Jobs

For smaller repairs, such as fixing a crack above a window lintel or repointing a single chimney course, the Silverline kit provides an accessible entry point. These kits typically include a carbide bit that attaches to a standard drill or small grinder.

Do not expect the longevity or vibration control of professional-grade systems. These are budget-friendly tools meant for light-duty, short-duration tasks where precision is less critical than immediate availability.

Check the chuck compatibility carefully before purchasing, as these are often designed for specific drive sizes. Use these kits for DIY home repairs where the cost of a dedicated power system cannot be justified by the volume of work.

Mortar Rake vs. Angle Grinder: Which Is Better?

An angle grinder with a diamond blade is designed for cutting through material, while a mortar rake is specifically engineered to remove it. Using a standard diamond blade often results in joints that are too wide, forcing the use of excessive mortar during the refilling phase.

Mortar rakes are generally thinner and feature specific tooth geometries that clear debris more effectively. The rake acts as a plow, whereas a standard diamond blade acts as a saw.

If the joint width is under 10mm, a dedicated mortar rake is almost always the safer choice. For wide, deep joints in stable masonry, a quality diamond blade can be faster, provided the user has the steady hand to avoid “wandering” into the brick face.

Choosing the Right Rake Bit Size for Your Joints

Selecting the wrong bit size is a common rookie mistake that leads to structural instability. As a rule of thumb, the bit should be roughly 1-2mm narrower than the joint itself to avoid rubbing against the brick edges.

If the bit is too thin, the tool will bounce and chatter inside the joint, leading to an uneven, “wavy” finish. If the bit is too thick, it will inevitably score the brick, permanently marring the face of the wall.

Always measure the joint width in three different locations before choosing a bit, as older masonry often has inconsistent spacing. When in doubt, start with a slightly smaller bit to ensure the tool remains controllable.

Mastering Dust Control: Silica Safety Is No Joke

The masonry industry is under strict scrutiny regarding silica dust because the health risks are permanent and severe. OSHA regulations mandate that any power cutting of masonry must be paired with an integrated water delivery system or a high-efficiency dust collection vacuum (HEPA).

Even for short-duration DIY projects, do not rely on a simple paper mask. Utilize a vacuum with a HEPA filter and ensure the shroud is flush against the masonry surface at all times to maintain negative pressure.

Consider the climate; in freezing conditions, water-fed systems can be problematic as they leave the masonry saturated and prone to spalling if the temperature drops suddenly. In these cases, a high-quality HEPA-rated vacuum is the safer, more efficient alternative.

Raking Technique: How Deep Should You Grind Out?

The industry standard for repointing depth is typically double the width of the joint, or until you reach sound, unfractured mortar. Raking too shallow will result in the new mortar “peeling” away within a few seasons, as there won’t be enough mechanical bond to hold it in place.

Avoid the temptation to rake deeper than necessary, as this can weaken the wall’s structural integrity. If you find the mortar is soft all the way through the depth of the brick, consider seeking professional structural consultation rather than simply patching the surface.

Always finish by cleaning the joint with a brush and compressed air to remove all loose dust before applying new mortar. A clean, debris-free joint is the only way to ensure the new mortar achieves a proper chemical and mechanical bond with the existing masonry.

Selecting the right mortar rake is about balancing the hardness of the mortar with the desired precision of the final joint. While power tools significantly increase efficiency, the quality of the work remains tied to the operator’s control and attention to safety. Match the tool to the specific masonry conditions, maintain proper dust mitigation protocols, and prioritize consistent depth to achieve results that last for decades.